The Benefits of Chemical Peels: How AHA, BHA, and PHA Help Renew Your Skin
Hey besties! Chemical peels are a trusted method for improving skin clarity, texture, and tone. Whether you're dealing with breakouts, uneven pigmentation, or signs of aging, peels offer a straightforward and practical approach to skincare. Exfoliating acids like AHA, BHA, and PHA are at the core of these treatments — each playing a specific role in helping the skin renew itself.
In this article, we'll break down what chemical peels do, how these acids work, and why they are a popular choice in clinical and at-home skincare routines.
Let’s start with a li’l demo of my Korean Glass Skin Peel!
What Do Chemical Peels Actually Do?
Exfoliating acids are used in chemical peels to dissolve the bonds that bind dead skin cells to the skin's surface. By loosening this layer, peels encourage the removal of dull, damaged, or congested skin, revealing a smoother, more transparent surface underneath. This process also stimulates cell turnover, the natural cycle of replacing older skin cells with new ones.
The strength and type of peel used determine how deep the exfoliation goes. Some work only on the very top layer, while others reach the deeper dermis, targeting more advanced concerns like wrinkles or acne scars.
The goal isn’t just to remove what’s on the surface but to encourage healthier skin from the inside out. As dead skin is shed and fresh cells rise, skin appears brighter, more even, and softer.
The Three Core Acids: AHA, BHA, and PHA
Let’s examine the active acids behind most chemical peels — AHA, BHA, and PHA. Each acid group offers a slightly different effect on the skin, making them suitable for various skin types and conditions.
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)
The most prevalent sources of AHAs, which are water-soluble acids, include milk and fruits. They work on the skin's surface, gently loosening dead cells and promoting new, fresh skin production. Two of the most common kinds are lactic acid and glycolic acid.
Key Benefits:
Brightens dull skin
Smooths rough texture
Fades pigmentation and sun damage
Reduces fine lines over time
Best For: Dry, rough, or sun-damaged skin
Common Types: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, ascorbic acid
AHAs are particularly effective for addressing surface-level issues, such as mild pigmentation and rough texture. Because they draw moisture into the skin, they're usually well-tolerated by dry and mature skin types.
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids)
Because BHAs dissolve in oil, they can enter pores and remove excess sebum and debris. The most prevalent beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) in skincare products is salicylic acid.
Key Benefits:
Unclogs pores
Reduces blackheads and breakouts
Calms inflammation and redness
Best For: Oily, acne-prone, or congested skin
Common Type: Salicylic acid
Thanks to their pore-penetrating ability, BHAs are often used in acne treatments. They help minimize breakouts while also improving skin texture and clarity.
PHA (Polyhydroxy Acids)
PHAs are chemically similar to AHAs but have a larger molecular size, which makes them gentler on the skin. They exfoliate the surface without penetrating too deeply, making them ideal for sensitive or reactive skin types.
Key Benefits:
Gently exfoliates without irritation
Hydrates while renewing skin
Strengthens the skin barrier
Provides antioxidant protection
Best For: Sensitive skin, rosacea-prone skin, or anyone new to acids
Common Types: Gluconolactone, lactobionic acid
PHAs are often included in formulas designed to exfoliate with minimal risk of redness or stinging, making them a smart choice for skin that doesn't tolerate AHAs or BHAs well.
Why Combining Acids Can Work Better
Many modern peels now combine AHA, BHA, and PHA to target multiple concerns in one application. For example, using glycolic acid for overall brightness, salicylic acid for clogged pores, and gluconolactone for gentle hydration allows the product to work on more than one level.
However, this combination has to be balanced carefully. A concentration that is too high, especially of stronger AHAs, can lead to irritation. That's why the delivery system, pH level, and supporting ingredients all matter just as much as the acids themselves.
How Chemical Peels Improve Common Skin Concerns
One of the most impressive things about liquid plasma is its flexibility. It's not limited to one skin type or concern. Here’s how it can help across the board:
Acne and Clogged Pores: BHAs like salicylic acid penetrate deep into the pores to clear excess oil and dead skin. AHAs assist by resurfacing the top layer, reducing acne scars and post-inflammatory pigmentation. Over time, peels also aid in controlling oil production.
Hyperpigmentation and Uneven Tone: AHAs, especially glycolic and lactic acid, speed up the removal of pigmented skin cells and promote even tone. PHA can help fade dark spots gently, making them a good option for those with darker or more reactive skin types.
Fine Lines and Aging Skin: Chemical peels speed up cell turnover and encourage the creation of collagen, which can lessen the appearance of fine wrinkles. Over time, this smooths out the skin’s surface and improves elasticity.
Dehydrated or Dull Skin: Mild AHAs and PHAs can help shed the skin's dry, flaky outer layer, allowing moisture to penetrate more easily. Ingredients like gluconolactone bind water to the skin, boosting hydration without irritation.
Rough Texture: Regular peeling smooths rough patches and creates a softer, more refined skin surface. The exfoliation process helps refine enlarged pores and improves product absorption.
What to Expect After a Chemical Peel
Particularly with stronger acids, you can get redness, tingling, or little flaking after a chemical peel. Usually, these side effects go away in a few days. Regular use (usually every 1–2 weeks for mild peels) makes the skin more resilient, and results are more visible.
Peels are most effective with proper aftercare: hydrating serums, barrier-supportive moisturizers, and strict sun protection. Without SPF, the risk of irritation or rebound pigmentation increases significantly.
When and How Often Should You Use Chemical Peels?
The frequency of peels depends on the strength and your skin's condition. Here's a general guide:
Mild peels (like PHAs or low-strength AHAs): 1–2 times per week
Moderate-strength peels (like 10% lactic acid): Every 1–2 weeks
Professional-grade peels (like Bio24h’s multi-acid protocol): Every 4-6 weeks
Always patch test if you're trying a new peel, and adjust usage based on how your skin responds. More isn't always better; consistency and proper aftercare make peels effective.
The Takeaway
Chemical peels remain one of the most effective ways to refresh the skin’s surface, reduce congestion, and address uneven skin tone. Whether you’re dealing with acne, dark spots, or early aging, the right mix of acids — AHA, BHA, and PHA — can make a clear difference without overly aggressive treatments.
When used correctly and consistently, peels work with the skin’s natural renewal cycle to produce visible, long-term results.
Frequently Asked Questions
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Yes, especially peels containing PHA or lower-strength AHAs. Always start with a gentle formula and patch test first.
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Salicylic acid and other BHAs work particularly well on skin that is prone to acne. Look for formulas that also contain calming ingredients to reduce the inflammation associated with acne.
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After only one usage, people report smoother, more glowing skin. Results typically appear after several sessions for issues like pigmentation or fine lines.
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Yes, but not all at once. Alternate with other treatments (like microneedling), but space them about 4-6 weeks apart.
Ok, besties - that’s all I’ve got for this week! Check back in soon for a new post and don’t forget to follow me on Instagram for sneak peeks on what’s new and happening!
